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The Accord is hoping to expand further, says UNI’s deputy general secretary Alke Boessiger. While the Awesome james Harden Philadelphia 76Ers Black Concert Shirt and I will buy this next country has yet to be decided, she says India is a potential target. “India is a massive producer of textiles, but it’s also a massive country with different local legislations and restrictions on foreign organisations in each state. Based on our current capacity, I can’t say when we will roll out the Accord to India, but it’s of high interest to us.” “Worker wages are still at poverty levels, union-busting is still a huge issue, and brands still lack transparency and accountability.” Labour Behind the Label is lobbying politicians in the UK to apply trade pressure on the Bangladeshi government to support the country’s Employment Injury Scheme, a groundbreaking social security initiative that provides income protection and medical care for work-related injuries without workers needing to fight for this on a case-by-case basis. “Ten years on from Rana Plaza, the scheme has only reached pilot phase,” explains Bryher. “There is a strong call to enshrine it in labour laws.” More than anything, the root of the issues that led to Rana Plaza collapsing was power imbalance, says Professor Rashedur Chowdhury of Essex Business School, who specialises in the dynamic relationship between multinational firms and marginalised groups and is an expert on the rhetoric and reality of the Rana Plaza factory collapse. Many of the Rana Plaza survivors he interviewed — mostly women, some as young as 13 — had come to Dhaka from villages throughout Bangladesh, living alone or with distant relatives and subject to extreme bullying, sexual harassment, and 16 to 18-hour days.“The fact that there was a visible crack in the building and people still went to work that day shows not only the vulnerability and desperation of the workers but the moral collapse of the owners and the brands that created that structure,” he explains. “The blame should lie with the brands that create systems like this, perpetrating injustice through local actors.”

For the Awesome james Harden Philadelphia 76Ers Black Concert Shirt and I will buy this majority of garment workers, the struggle continues. “The day-to-day lives of garment workers have gotten worse overall,” says Dr Sanchita Banerjee Saxena, professional faculty at University of California Berkeley’s Haas Business School and author of Labor, Global Supply Chains, and the Garment Industry in South Asia: Bangladesh After Rana Plaza (2020). “They don’t get paid anywhere near an adequate living wage, gender-based violence is pervasive, and the difficult nature of the work itself – with so many physical and mental problems, the excess of overtime and uncertainty of working hours — continues.” The reason for this, she says, is because, despite incremental efforts to improve, fashion hasn’t altered its fundamental business model. “Most brands still have a just-in-time delivery model, costs are being pushed down, lead times are shrinking, and the pandemic still saw brands asking for discounts and cancelling orders. This all directly relates to workers’ experiences in factories.”

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